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>>Ben Moon's Blog

  • Tim Clifford: Room Project become The Singularity >> When I first came across it I thought it was such an amazing line, a clean granite wall maybe 15 feet high, overhanging by about thirty degrees with very faint slopy holds and rails leading to the top. This was when myself and Anne visited Squamish for the first time in summer of 2001 during a 9 month road trip. Although the conditions can be reasonable in squamish for bouldering that time of year, at the time it was too warm for me to climb it. I did try though, and the one thing I came away with from that trip was it was definitley possible. 3 years later I returned on yet another road trip, this time coming to Squamish at the end of August in the hope that conditions in September would be good. I'd heard from many people that this was the case but unluckily it turned out to be the wettest September in Squamish on record, and anybody who knows Squamish will know that's wet. We did have some good days and during those days I made progress. This time, even though I extended my stay in Squamish for two more weeks, I failed to get the conditions to climb it but left feeling confident I could. Finally in 2007 I'm back and now living in here in Squamish having moved here in mid April. The room project has definitely been something I really wanted to get back on as soon as possible. I was pretty amazed it was still a project so decided I should focus on climbing it before I did anything else. At first it felt I was back to square one as I couldn't do the first move but then over a few more days I was back to my best previous efforts. Another session and I found some new beta which gave me the break though I needed. The climbing consists of the two hardest moves first, pulling off the ground using a small high right pinch to get a sloping left edge before the crux pull off this hold to gain a sloping diagonal rail. After which a few more slightly easier moves lead to a throw to a decent edge and it's basically done. The holds are very poor and it requires quite a bit of body tension to remain on the rock. A few days ago accompanied my my friend Jack Fieldhouse, a climber responsible for developing a large percentage of the Squamish bouldering, I was back in the late evening in good cool conditions. Amazingly I put it together on my first try, every move went perfectly which for me it has to do. Each hold has to be taken exactly right with no margin for error and every foot placement precise otherwise I fail. I think this is why it's such a special problem for me, as it's very technical as well as powerful. I can't throw myself at it, there is no way I could get through all but the very last hard move if my feet cut, it feels like if you try too hard then it doesn't work. To be the first person to unlock this problem felt great, as to how hard I don't know - maybe v14 but it's so hard to grade things. All I know it's the best problem I've done, great moves, perfect rock and the only way up the face of the boulder
  • Tyler Landman: Ode to the Modern Man gets 2nd ascent >> Saturday the 26th of May 2007. woke up feeling pretty tired but syked. the day had come that i had been waiting for. i was going up to Mt. Evans today to have my third day on Ode to the Modern Man. i had tried it two other days over the last 3 weeks. I got close second day falling at the jump a couple times but split a tip. so i decided to leave the problem for 2 weeks. today was the day,i could feel it when i woke up. the problem starts off with a slopey left hand pinch and nothing rigt hand sidepull. you do a hard stab to a small crimp and then come into a terrible crystal with the other hand. You then do a huge jump to a big slope with a tricky swing to hold. here you can gather your thoughts and prepare for the next section which involves 3 tricky moves including a dynamic move off a poor pinch to a positive edge off an awkward heel hook. you then do 2 easier moves to the top of the wall. Straight off the bat, 1st go of the day, i stuck the jump, its in the satch i thought, but i fell at the last hard move, off the heel hook. i was shocked and disappointed but held it together. i fell again up there a couple goes later. this really frustrated me. my skin was becoming sore and i didnt know how many more goes i could have. 'There is no reason why i shouldn't do this right now' i thought to myself. i pulled on and climbed the problem with utmost tension throughout my body. i was not going to fall off this time. Daniel Woods put up this problem in September 06 and graded it v14. It took him 8 days, longer than any other problem which is significant because he has done almost every hard problem in North America. After going to Hueco Tanks this winter and climbing Fred Nicoles v14 testpiece, Terre De Sienne, in an impressive 8 goes, he realised his Ode must be v15 in comparison. This problem is the hardest in Colorado and one of the hardest in North America and is world class. I have decided to grade this problem v14/15. It is harder than any v14 i have done, and although only took me 3 days, it could not suit my style any better. i dont think it is quite hard enough for the whopping v15, but it is certainly the real deal. it is a futuristic line pulling on extremely small holds and a very high quality problem. It signifies a new modern climbing style i think. a problem of me and Daniel's generation. check out hardclimbs.blogspot.com for more upcoming news and footage. and momentumvm.com for the HD edited verson of the ascent.
  • Tyler Landman: Round Room Project (No Longer) >> In 2005 i went to squamish on a solo bouldering trip. While wondering around the forest, I wasnt sure of problems' names or grades, but i stumbled upon this and was very impressed. A perfect boulder i thought. Steep line on pristine granite slopes and pinches with a perfect jump to the flat top of the boulder. I learnt later on this was in fact 'The Round Room Project', of course it is no longer a project. I wished at that time i was climbing well enough to at least attempt the moves but i thought i would have to come back for this one. I am always pleased when a foreigner goes to an area and completes a longstanding project because it is a lot harder to do this when you aren't local to the area. Tim Clifford's effort is VERY impressive. This has been a project for forever and has been tried by some of the best climbers in the world, including Chris Sharma. Although i have not tried it, from what i've heard and seen, I think this is for sure 8b+ and could very well be 8c. I understand Tim likes to keep his climbing on the down low, but this problem deserves publicity. This problem is serious stuff. The real deal! I hope Tim's effort inspires climbers from all over the world to go try it, i am definately considering a trip this summer. Signing out. Ty
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>>Chris Tartaglia's Blog

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>>Climbing Films Movies

  • JY Roof by: Kelly Sheridan >> Max Hasson squeezin' juice on the newly 'discovered' JY Roof, yet another Leavenworth classic. Video and music from 3/7/06.
  • freeRIDER by: szaFa >> The first polish ascent of freeRIDER route.
  • Ridni -part 1 by: Upnorth >> Film about bouldering in the Land of the Midnight sun. Classic problems of Rovaniemi,Luppioberget and of course the new and mighty Inari. Total of 28 problems, including 5 first acsents and 6 unrepeated lines. Filmed & edited : Upnorth Productions Download a better quality from www.ridni.tk
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>>FreakClimbing News

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>>Lynn Hill's Blog

  • Still here, still climbing (but busy!) >>  Sorry I have not been updating! I have been working on a climbing technique video , amongst other things. Here is a recent update I wrote: Some people assume that the lifestyle of a climber is mostly about climbing. But there is a lot of “work” that gets done between trips and days out on the [...]
  • Brief Respite Between Trips >>  This past month has been filled with lots of travel for the usual mixture of work, play, family visits, and a fun birthday party for my son, Owen, who just turned five-years-old on Monday. Having recently come back from a trip to Italy where I got a chance to see some good friends in Arco [...]
  • The Cleanest Line >>  Please check out The Cleanest Line over at Patagonia.
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>>Modump Photos

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>>Pod Climber: Climbing Podcasts

  • Eric Hörst Training 66 >> Topics covered include…the importance of taking a personal inventory of the year’s successes and experiences, setting compelling goals for 2010, and a preview of Eric’s new book, Maximum Climbing, to be released on 4/1/10. nicros :: erics page :: misty's page :: File Download (12:13 min / 11.2 MB)
  • Eric Hörst Training 65 >> When Legends Die: The Powerful, Profound Message of our Climbing Heroes Nicros :: Eric's Page :: Training for Climbing Misty's Page :: File Download (15:26 min / 14.3 MB)
  • Eric Hörst Training 64 >> Endurance Training Learn two effective training exercises for building more endurance in the critical climbing muscles. nicros :: Eric's page :: Misty Murphy Music :: Mountain Gear Sale :: File Download (13:15 min / 12.4 MB)
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>>Rock Climbing .com forums

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>>Rock Climbing.com World News

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>>Southeastern Climbers Coalition News

  • Southeast rocks TeamWorks competition >> Written by Emily Bregel For the second year running, Southeastern climbing teams dominated the Access Fund’s TeamWorks competition, an environmental stewardship program geared to involve young climbers in conservation. Four of the five top teams in this year’s competition — with scores based on number of volunteer hours logged during trail clean-up days over the past year — were from the Southeast region.
  • Kasia Pietras Interview >> If you’re at all into the climbing scene in the south, you’ve probably heard of Kasia Pietras. My guess is if you haven’t - you will! This 21 year old, originally from Chicago, transplanted herself to Chattanooga to attend UTC and to be closer to some of the best climbing around. Kasia started climbing indoors at a young age and grew up competing on plastic. Over a decade later, she still enjoys the rush of competition and it motivates her to train and climb hard. She climbed her first 5.13 in 2005 and has been going strong since. Kasia currently spends a little more time bouldering than on routes, but it’s paid off for the ambitious climber, as she took the overall win in the Women's Open division at the 2009 Triple Crown. As much as she loves competition and striving to reach her own personal climbing goals, the apparent thing about Kasia is she just likes to get out there! She loves seeing new places and as much as she can, she does her part to ensure that these places will stay open for future climbers!
  • Jon Glassberg Interview >> Whether it's pulling down on sick boulders problems in the High Country of NC or setting course at The Spot in Boulder, Jon Glassberg cuts an imposing figure on the climbing landscape. Jon takes a few minutes to catch up with The SCC and fill us in on what he's been up to.
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>>UK Climbing Articles

  • An Interview With Stephen Venables >>  Stephen Venables was the first Briton to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen. He reached the summit alone, after climbing with a small American-Canadian team, by a new route up the gigantic Kangshung Face. Here Stephen answers some questions for UKClimbing.com about his life, his views on mountaineering and of course, what he thinks about Everest.
  • VIDEO: What makes the CWIF special? >>  What is a CWIF? It stands for Climbing Works International Festival and this year, on Saturday 20th March, some of the best bouldering talent in the world will descend on Sheffield to compete, and you can too. There is £4000 of prize money. Percy Bishton one of the owners of the Climbing Works explains what makes CWIF special.
  • Patagonian Adventure: Cerro Catedral 2010 >>  Pete Rhodes, George Ullrich and Mason Earle attempt an extreme new free route on a Patagonian Big Wall. “Can you give me a hand guys? My portaledge has collapsed...”
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>>UK Climbing News

  • Adam Ondra - A Muerte - F9a >>  From Bjorn Pohl's Blog: "Adam Ondra has returned to Spain and Siurana. This time he crushed Richard Simpson's bouldery two finger pocket horror, A Muerte, F9a, in 3 tries, for its fastest ascent to date." More Info: Bjorn Pohl's Blog: RELATED VIDEO BELOW: Cedric Lachat Climbs A Muerte F9a
  • Scottish Storm: The Tempest X,9 >>  Andy Turner and Dave MacLeod Repeat Neil Gresham's test-piece The Tempest: Back in 2001 Neil Gresham caused an ethical hurricane by creating The Tempest, a savagely technical route in Glen Coe. The route has now been repeated by Andy Turner and Dave MacLeod.
  • ShAFF Next Weekend: A Preview >>  The Sheffield Adventure Film Festival (ShAFF), being held at the Showroom next weekend (12th-14th March), has now matured into its fifth successive year and is set to be the biggest and most diverse yet.Simon Jacques gives us the low down.
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>>UK Climbing Photos

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>>UrbanClimberMag.tv

  • 505 by:Tom Ellis >> Highlights of bouldering in the Sandia Mountains just above the city of Albuquerque New Mexico
  • Two from the Creek by:DenverBouldering >> Justin Jaeger on two problems in Clear Creek Canyon.
  • Rewind Trailer by:BS Productions >> Through five full-length films, BS Productions has amassed years of footage of hundreds of climbers doing what they do best. It is finally time to open the vaults and reveal the adventures as one seamless film. In REWIND, you can travel back to connect the stories with years of never before seen footage. Join us to traverse the lives of Dave Graham, Jason Kehl, Joe Kinder, Emily Harrington, Chris Lindner and many, many more in a non-stop stream of action that will flash over 15 years of climbing before your eyes.
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