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>>Ben Moon's Blog

  • Tim Clifford: Room Project become The Singularity >> When I first came across it I thought it was such an amazing line, a clean granite wall maybe 15 feet high, overhanging by about thirty degrees with very faint slopy holds and rails leading to the top. This was when myself and Anne visited Squamish for the first time in summer of 2001 during a 9 month road trip. Although the conditions can be reasonable in squamish for bouldering that time of year, at the time it was too warm for me to climb it. I did try though, and the one thing I came away with from that trip was it was definitley possible. 3 years later I returned on yet another road trip, this time coming to Squamish at the end of August in the hope that conditions in September would be good. I'd heard from many people that this was the case but unluckily it turned out to be the wettest September in Squamish on record, and anybody who knows Squamish will know that's wet. We did have some good days and during those days I made progress. This time, even though I extended my stay in Squamish for two more weeks, I failed to get the conditions to climb it but left feeling confident I could. Finally in 2007 I'm back and now living in here in Squamish having moved here in mid April. The room project has definitely been something I really wanted to get back on as soon as possible. I was pretty amazed it was still a project so decided I should focus on climbing it before I did anything else. At first it felt I was back to square one as I couldn't do the first move but then over a few more days I was back to my best previous efforts. Another session and I found some new beta which gave me the break though I needed. The climbing consists of the two hardest moves first, pulling off the ground using a small high right pinch to get a sloping left edge before the crux pull off this hold to gain a sloping diagonal rail. After which a few more slightly easier moves lead to a throw to a decent edge and it's basically done. The holds are very poor and it requires quite a bit of body tension to remain on the rock. A few days ago accompanied my my friend Jack Fieldhouse, a climber responsible for developing a large percentage of the Squamish bouldering, I was back in the late evening in good cool conditions. Amazingly I put it together on my first try, every move went perfectly which for me it has to do. Each hold has to be taken exactly right with no margin for error and every foot placement precise otherwise I fail. I think this is why it's such a special problem for me, as it's very technical as well as powerful. I can't throw myself at it, there is no way I could get through all but the very last hard move if my feet cut, it feels like if you try too hard then it doesn't work. To be the first person to unlock this problem felt great, as to how hard I don't know - maybe v14 but it's so hard to grade things. All I know it's the best problem I've done, great moves, perfect rock and the only way up the face of the boulder
  • Tyler Landman: Ode to the Modern Man gets 2nd ascent >> Saturday the 26th of May 2007. woke up feeling pretty tired but syked. the day had come that i had been waiting for. i was going up to Mt. Evans today to have my third day on Ode to the Modern Man. i had tried it two other days over the last 3 weeks. I got close second day falling at the jump a couple times but split a tip. so i decided to leave the problem for 2 weeks. today was the day,i could feel it when i woke up. the problem starts off with a slopey left hand pinch and nothing rigt hand sidepull. you do a hard stab to a small crimp and then come into a terrible crystal with the other hand. You then do a huge jump to a big slope with a tricky swing to hold. here you can gather your thoughts and prepare for the next section which involves 3 tricky moves including a dynamic move off a poor pinch to a positive edge off an awkward heel hook. you then do 2 easier moves to the top of the wall. Straight off the bat, 1st go of the day, i stuck the jump, its in the satch i thought, but i fell at the last hard move, off the heel hook. i was shocked and disappointed but held it together. i fell again up there a couple goes later. this really frustrated me. my skin was becoming sore and i didnt know how many more goes i could have. 'There is no reason why i shouldn't do this right now' i thought to myself. i pulled on and climbed the problem with utmost tension throughout my body. i was not going to fall off this time. Daniel Woods put up this problem in September 06 and graded it v14. It took him 8 days, longer than any other problem which is significant because he has done almost every hard problem in North America. After going to Hueco Tanks this winter and climbing Fred Nicoles v14 testpiece, Terre De Sienne, in an impressive 8 goes, he realised his Ode must be v15 in comparison. This problem is the hardest in Colorado and one of the hardest in North America and is world class. I have decided to grade this problem v14/15. It is harder than any v14 i have done, and although only took me 3 days, it could not suit my style any better. i dont think it is quite hard enough for the whopping v15, but it is certainly the real deal. it is a futuristic line pulling on extremely small holds and a very high quality problem. It signifies a new modern climbing style i think. a problem of me and Daniel's generation. check out hardclimbs.blogspot.com for more upcoming news and footage. and momentumvm.com for the HD edited verson of the ascent.
  • Tyler Landman: Round Room Project (No Longer) >> In 2005 i went to squamish on a solo bouldering trip. While wondering around the forest, I wasnt sure of problems' names or grades, but i stumbled upon this and was very impressed. A perfect boulder i thought. Steep line on pristine granite slopes and pinches with a perfect jump to the flat top of the boulder. I learnt later on this was in fact 'The Round Room Project', of course it is no longer a project. I wished at that time i was climbing well enough to at least attempt the moves but i thought i would have to come back for this one. I am always pleased when a foreigner goes to an area and completes a longstanding project because it is a lot harder to do this when you aren't local to the area. Tim Clifford's effort is VERY impressive. This has been a project for forever and has been tried by some of the best climbers in the world, including Chris Sharma. Although i have not tried it, from what i've heard and seen, I think this is for sure 8b+ and could very well be 8c. I understand Tim likes to keep his climbing on the down low, but this problem deserves publicity. This problem is serious stuff. The real deal! I hope Tim's effort inspires climbers from all over the world to go try it, i am definately considering a trip this summer. Signing out. Ty
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>>Chris Tartaglia's Blog

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>>Climbing Films Movies

  • JY Roof by: Kelly Sheridan >> Max Hasson squeezin' juice on the newly 'discovered' JY Roof, yet another Leavenworth classic. Video and music from 3/7/06.
  • freeRIDER by: szaFa >> The first polish ascent of freeRIDER route.
  • Ridni -part 1 by: Upnorth >> Film about bouldering in the Land of the Midnight sun. Classic problems of Rovaniemi,Luppioberget and of course the new and mighty Inari. Total of 28 problems, including 5 first acsents and 6 unrepeated lines. Filmed & edited : Upnorth Productions Download a better quality from www.ridni.tk
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>>FreakClimbing News

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>>Lynn Hill's Blog

  • Still here, still climbing (but busy!) >>  Sorry I have not been updating! I have been working on a climbing technique video , amongst other things. Here is a recent update I wrote: Some people assume that the lifestyle of a climber is mostly about climbing. But there is a lot of “work” that gets done between trips and days out on the [...]
  • Brief Respite Between Trips >>  This past month has been filled with lots of travel for the usual mixture of work, play, family visits, and a fun birthday party for my son, Owen, who just turned five-years-old on Monday. Having recently come back from a trip to Italy where I got a chance to see some good friends in Arco [...]
  • The Cleanest Line >>  Please check out The Cleanest Line over at Patagonia.
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>>Modump Photos

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>>Pod Climber: Climbing Podcasts

  • Eric Hörst Training 59 >> The Secret to Improving Your Climbing Technique. Learn the importance of sensory awareness and how to use proprioceptive cues to climb more efficiently and effectively! Nicros :: Eric's page :: Misty Murphy Music :: File Download (14:07 min / 13.1 MB)
  • Eric Hörst Training 58 >> Training Table #7 Topics covered include how to elevate your climbing with improved self-talk, Eric’s thoughts on the climbing tragedy in the Sichuan Highlands of Chinese controlled Tibet, and an announcement of the first “Climb Strong” training seminar to be held on July 11. Nicros :: Eric's page :: Misty Murphy Music :: File Download (16:17 min / 15.1 MB)
  • Eric Hörst Training 57 >> Top 5 Antagonist-Muscle Exercises Eric will describe five important antagonist-muscles exercises that will help prevent injury to the elbows and shoulders. Nicros :: Eric's page :: Misty Murphy Music :: File Download (17:45 min / 16.4 MB)
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>>Rock Climbing .com forums

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>>Rock Climbing.com World News

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>>Southeastern Climbers Coalition News

  • H-Town Throws Down While James Parker and Mountain High Fire It Up for STEELE >> On Thursday, June 25, 2009, the SCC, Mountain High, James Parker, and Huntsville climbers pulled together to not only raise the idea of community to a new, higher level, but show some love for the pending closing of the Steele contract. With Mountain High Huntsville providing the shelter, James Parker, local climber, provided a slideshow presentation of his view of the world, seen from the lense of his camera. Afterwards, proper homage was paid to the masters of video from ATL with a viewing of their already mega classic "Rhapsody of Steele". "Sharp End" was shown to appropriately polish off the night. $230 was raised for Steele. But enough of that...clicky clicky to read Mr. Parker's thoughts on Steele and climbing conservation. Knowledge will be dropped upon you.
  • High Country Movie Nite raises more funds for Steele >> By Joey Wolfe. High Country Outfitters opened their doors on Thursday June 25th at 7:00 pm for the second movie night of the year. The featured movie this time was Masters of Stone VI which was provided by the guys at Mammut. We also raffled off a pair of climbing shoes provided by the guys at La Sportiva which raised $198 for The Southeastern Climbers Coalition and their goal to purchase a portion of the cliffline at Steele, Alabama.
  • The Bham Contingency and AHSL THROW DOWN for Steele. >> That right folks. The Birmingham Contingency, along with the Henry's and their property, pulled together to "give 'er" for Steele. Between Saturday June 6th and Sunday June 7th, an amazing $1407 was raised for the Steele purchase. But I'm not going to talk anymore because if you do the clicky clicky, the man, the myth, and the legend, Brooks Walker is going to spray you down with the flow on this.
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>>Sport Climbing .de (german)

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>>UK Climbing Articles

  • GUEST EDITORIAL: A Pembroke Saga >>  Following on from recent UKClimbing.com forum discussion, Ian Smith casts his mind back to a fixed gear issue in Pembroke that began some twenty years ago. He looks to the past to perhaps offer solutions, or at least ideas, for the future. "Back in 1995 we didn't have internet forums, we couldn't, as Alan has been doing, widen the debate into a public area where all interested parties can, if they wish, make their contribution..."
  • Relocate: Sheffield >>  In this new mini-series 'Relocate' we take a look at different areas of Britain and what they are like to live and climb in. "Fifteen minutes drive? No! Ten minutes? No! Five minutes! Five minutes drive from my house to Stanage!" Adam Long takes a look at Sheffield.
  • Cry Freedom F8b+ - A Personal Account >>  Drew Haigh gives us a person account of his recent ascent of Cry Freedom (F8b+) at Malham Cove, Yorkshire. "The first run on lead went well with a brutal set of moves I fought my way to last holds before powering out... I'd not given the top few moves the respect they deserved."
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>>UK Climbing News

  • Young Turks Free Whitestone Traverse - HXS >>  Luke Hunt and Franco Cookson have succeeded on their long-term project of free climbing the girdle of Whitestone Cliff, North Yorkshire at a grade of HXS 6b. The 14 pitch adventure is described as a "brilliant and serious route, weaving a line of weakness through spectacular rock architecture".
  • Government Taxes Mountain Rescue £200,000 Per Year >>  VAT Exemption Petition Knocked Back By No. 10 The Mountain Rescue (MR) for England and Wales is donation funded and staffed by volunteers. They receive no remuneration for their efforts, but are rewarded with a large tax bill. "We are constantly met with a brick wall when it comes to government making concessions to us on taxes"
  • 12 Year Old Girl Climbs F8a+/b >>  Yesterday Ukranian climber Zhenja Kazbekova redpointed New Kenigsberg (F8a+/8b) at Red Stone, Crimea. Zhenja is 12 years old. "They introduced Zhenja to their local crags at 7 months old and she started climbing regularly aged 5..."
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>>UK Climbing Photos

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>>UrbanClimberMag.tv

  • 505 by:Tom Ellis >> Highlights of bouldering in the Sandia Mountains just above the city of Albuquerque New Mexico
  • Two from the Creek by:DenverBouldering >> Justin Jaeger on two problems in Clear Creek Canyon.
  • Rewind Trailer by:BS Productions >> Through five full-length films, BS Productions has amassed years of footage of hundreds of climbers doing what they do best. It is finally time to open the vaults and reveal the adventures as one seamless film. In REWIND, you can travel back to connect the stories with years of never before seen footage. Join us to traverse the lives of Dave Graham, Jason Kehl, Joe Kinder, Emily Harrington, Chris Lindner and many, many more in a non-stop stream of action that will flash over 15 years of climbing before your eyes.
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