home
movies
photos
blog
craggregator
The Craggregator

The Craggregator: Your One Stop Shop For What's New On The Web's Rock Climbing Sites

What is the Craggregator?
feed

>>Ben Moon's Blog

  • Tim Clifford: Room Project become The Singularity >> When I first came across it I thought it was such an amazing line, a clean granite wall maybe 15 feet high, overhanging by about thirty degrees with very faint slopy holds and rails leading to the top. This was when myself and Anne visited Squamish for the first time in summer of 2001 during a 9 month road trip. Although the conditions can be reasonable in squamish for bouldering that time of year, at the time it was too warm for me to climb it. I did try though, and the one thing I came away with from that trip was it was definitley possible. 3 years later I returned on yet another road trip, this time coming to Squamish at the end of August in the hope that conditions in September would be good. I'd heard from many people that this was the case but unluckily it turned out to be the wettest September in Squamish on record, and anybody who knows Squamish will know that's wet. We did have some good days and during those days I made progress. This time, even though I extended my stay in Squamish for two more weeks, I failed to get the conditions to climb it but left feeling confident I could. Finally in 2007 I'm back and now living in here in Squamish having moved here in mid April. The room project has definitely been something I really wanted to get back on as soon as possible. I was pretty amazed it was still a project so decided I should focus on climbing it before I did anything else. At first it felt I was back to square one as I couldn't do the first move but then over a few more days I was back to my best previous efforts. Another session and I found some new beta which gave me the break though I needed. The climbing consists of the two hardest moves first, pulling off the ground using a small high right pinch to get a sloping left edge before the crux pull off this hold to gain a sloping diagonal rail. After which a few more slightly easier moves lead to a throw to a decent edge and it's basically done. The holds are very poor and it requires quite a bit of body tension to remain on the rock. A few days ago accompanied my my friend Jack Fieldhouse, a climber responsible for developing a large percentage of the Squamish bouldering, I was back in the late evening in good cool conditions. Amazingly I put it together on my first try, every move went perfectly which for me it has to do. Each hold has to be taken exactly right with no margin for error and every foot placement precise otherwise I fail. I think this is why it's such a special problem for me, as it's very technical as well as powerful. I can't throw myself at it, there is no way I could get through all but the very last hard move if my feet cut, it feels like if you try too hard then it doesn't work. To be the first person to unlock this problem felt great, as to how hard I don't know - maybe v14 but it's so hard to grade things. All I know it's the best problem I've done, great moves, perfect rock and the only way up the face of the boulder
  • Tyler Landman: Ode to the Modern Man gets 2nd ascent >> Saturday the 26th of May 2007. woke up feeling pretty tired but syked. the day had come that i had been waiting for. i was going up to Mt. Evans today to have my third day on Ode to the Modern Man. i had tried it two other days over the last 3 weeks. I got close second day falling at the jump a couple times but split a tip. so i decided to leave the problem for 2 weeks. today was the day,i could feel it when i woke up. the problem starts off with a slopey left hand pinch and nothing rigt hand sidepull. you do a hard stab to a small crimp and then come into a terrible crystal with the other hand. You then do a huge jump to a big slope with a tricky swing to hold. here you can gather your thoughts and prepare for the next section which involves 3 tricky moves including a dynamic move off a poor pinch to a positive edge off an awkward heel hook. you then do 2 easier moves to the top of the wall. Straight off the bat, 1st go of the day, i stuck the jump, its in the satch i thought, but i fell at the last hard move, off the heel hook. i was shocked and disappointed but held it together. i fell again up there a couple goes later. this really frustrated me. my skin was becoming sore and i didnt know how many more goes i could have. 'There is no reason why i shouldn't do this right now' i thought to myself. i pulled on and climbed the problem with utmost tension throughout my body. i was not going to fall off this time. Daniel Woods put up this problem in September 06 and graded it v14. It took him 8 days, longer than any other problem which is significant because he has done almost every hard problem in North America. After going to Hueco Tanks this winter and climbing Fred Nicoles v14 testpiece, Terre De Sienne, in an impressive 8 goes, he realised his Ode must be v15 in comparison. This problem is the hardest in Colorado and one of the hardest in North America and is world class. I have decided to grade this problem v14/15. It is harder than any v14 i have done, and although only took me 3 days, it could not suit my style any better. i dont think it is quite hard enough for the whopping v15, but it is certainly the real deal. it is a futuristic line pulling on extremely small holds and a very high quality problem. It signifies a new modern climbing style i think. a problem of me and Daniel's generation. check out hardclimbs.blogspot.com for more upcoming news and footage. and momentumvm.com for the HD edited verson of the ascent.
  • Tyler Landman: Round Room Project (No Longer) >> In 2005 i went to squamish on a solo bouldering trip. While wondering around the forest, I wasnt sure of problems' names or grades, but i stumbled upon this and was very impressed. A perfect boulder i thought. Steep line on pristine granite slopes and pinches with a perfect jump to the flat top of the boulder. I learnt later on this was in fact 'The Round Room Project', of course it is no longer a project. I wished at that time i was climbing well enough to at least attempt the moves but i thought i would have to come back for this one. I am always pleased when a foreigner goes to an area and completes a longstanding project because it is a lot harder to do this when you aren't local to the area. Tim Clifford's effort is VERY impressive. This has been a project for forever and has been tried by some of the best climbers in the world, including Chris Sharma. Although i have not tried it, from what i've heard and seen, I think this is for sure 8b+ and could very well be 8c. I understand Tim likes to keep his climbing on the down low, but this problem deserves publicity. This problem is serious stuff. The real deal! I hope Tim's effort inspires climbers from all over the world to go try it, i am definately considering a trip this summer. Signing out. Ty
feed

>>Chris Tartaglia's Blog

There was an error with this feed.
Error Message: MagpieRSS: Failed to parse RSS file. (not well-formed (invalid token) at line 19, column 13)
feed

>>FreakClimbing News

There was an error with this feed.
Error Message: MagpieRSS: Failed to parse RSS file. (syntax error at line 1, column 62)There was an error with this feed.
Error Message: MagpieRSS: Failed to parse RSS file. (junk after document element at line 2, column 0)
feed

>>Modump Photos

feed

>>Pod Climber: Climbing Podcasts

  • Eric Hörst Training 71 >> The Best Mindset for Maximum Performance and Optimal Experience. Learn how returning to a beginner’s mindset best sets the stage for peak performance and experience. Nicros :: Eric's Page :: Misty's Page :: File Download (9:33 min / 10.9 MB)
  • Eric Hörst Training 70 >> Proactive Risk Management Strategies Learn six risk management strategies and how you can best balance risk-taking with the desire to excel in climbing. Nicros :: Eric's page :: Misty's page :: File Download (11:13 min / 12.8 MB)
  • Eric Hörst Training 69 >> Training for Your Summer Road trip! In this podcast Eric describes 3 different training strategies to prepare for a summer roadtrip. Listen in to determine which program is right for you! Nicros :: Eric's page :: Misty Murphy :: File Download (12:44 min / 14.6 MB)
feed

>>Rock Climbing .com forums

feed

>>Rock Climbing.com World News

feed

>>Southeastern Climbers Coalition News

  • Beg, Borrow, or Steele GOES BIG!!! >> Beg, Borrow, and Steele was more fun and successful than we ever could have imagined. It was truly a grassroots organized fundraiser with numerous people involved that came together to unite a community behind a common goal--a huge summer party-- I mean, the purchase of STEELE! This one belongs to everyone. Like last year, it was held at Adam Henry's back yard/crag/river paradise.
  • Access Fund visits the Dirty South!! >> Just letting everyone know that Joe Sambataro from the Access Fund is visiting the Dirty South for the week. We had a great weekend of Alabama climbing, bouldering (even in this heat), and had a great meeting up at Brad's House. Joe is here with us for the rest of the week and we will be moving on to Tennessee.
  • Rock Town Trail Day Write Up >> On June 19th, 24 volunteers spent 3 hours in the summer heat spreading gravel at the trailhead at Rock Town. The gravel was WICKED heavy!! It took four volunteers at a time to carry it up the trail in tarps. Everyone worked really hard and it was very hot. We were able to move about 1/10th of the pile, which seemed to never go down. We covered the trail from the beginning to the little foot bridge and then took care of some of the water steps on the first big incline. Carol Simmon's friend, Jeff, cleared away dead trees from the trail with a chainsaw.
feed

>>Sport Climbing .de (german)

feed

>>UK Climbing Articles

  • VIDEO: Podsacs - North Wales Bouldering Competition >>  As the leaves begin to turn and the temperature drops we know it's bouldering season. To mark the return of the best conditions Podsacs are doing a promotion of their bouldering gear and a celebration of climbing ropeless on small rocks. This is your chance to win a Podsacs Super Crash Pad, a Podsacs Crash Pad, A North Wales Bouldering Guidebook by Simon Panton, chalk bag prizes plus a Podsacs beer towel for every winner.
  • VIDEO: Nico Favresse - La Reina Mora F8c+ >>  Belgian big-waller Nico Favresse stars in this short film from Bernardo Gimenez and Black Diamond. Nico climbs the F8c+ testpiece of La Reina Mora in Siurana, Spain. The film is a superb portrait of Nico, showing his talents not only as a climber, but also as a musician and philosopher.
  • UKClimbing.com content in August 2010 >>  A summary of all the latest content on UKClimbing.com from the past month, including: 8 new articles, 22 product announcements and 7 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.
feed

>>UK Climbing News

  • Rob Adie from the BMC Live on the UKC Forums >>  Rob Adie is the BMC Climbing Walls and Competitions Officer and he is going live on the UKC Forums tomorrow! That's Friday the third of September. "I provide advice about climbing wall related issues and am responsible for organising all the BMC's climbing competitions..."
  • VIDEO: Catapult - Font 8A+ repeated by Will Atkinson >>  Will Atkinson is back doing what he does best, namely, jumping a very long way between very bad holds. On Saturday he repeated Chris Graham's test piece dyno at Kyloe in the woods, the popular sandstone crag in Northumberland. Catapult weighs in at Font 8A+...
  • Climbing TV: The Eiger: Wall of Death, Andy K and Leo >>  After this weekends' Great Climb, when Dave MacLeod and Tim Emmett successfully climbed a new route on Sron Uladail, there are two more climbing events on the TV this week: Eiger Wall of Death, and Andy K and Karen Darke on the Michael Ball Show. On September 24th the climbing film The Wildest Dream is released starring Leo Houlding and Conrad Anker.
feed

>>UK Climbing Photos

feed

>>UrbanClimberMag.tv

  • 505 by:Tom Ellis >> Highlights of bouldering in the Sandia Mountains just above the city of Albuquerque New Mexico
  • Two from the Creek by:DenverBouldering >> Justin Jaeger on two problems in Clear Creek Canyon.
  • Rewind Trailer by:BS Productions >> Through five full-length films, BS Productions has amassed years of footage of hundreds of climbers doing what they do best. It is finally time to open the vaults and reveal the adventures as one seamless film. In REWIND, you can travel back to connect the stories with years of never before seen footage. Join us to traverse the lives of Dave Graham, Jason Kehl, Joe Kinder, Emily Harrington, Chris Lindner and many, many more in a non-stop stream of action that will flash over 15 years of climbing before your eyes.
HOME|MOVIES|PHOTOS|BLOG|CRAGGREGATOR
CONTACT CRAGHEAD| SUBMIT TO CRAGHEAD
This site is best viewed in everything but Internet Explorer Website design and management by Winslow Taft All Rights Reserved © 2005 Craghead.net