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>>Ben Moon's Blog

  • Tim Clifford: Room Project become The Singularity >> When I first came across it I thought it was such an amazing line, a clean granite wall maybe 15 feet high, overhanging by about thirty degrees with very faint slopy holds and rails leading to the top. This was when myself and Anne visited Squamish for the first time in summer of 2001 during a 9 month road trip. Although the conditions can be reasonable in squamish for bouldering that time of year, at the time it was too warm for me to climb it. I did try though, and the one thing I came away with from that trip was it was definitley possible. 3 years later I returned on yet another road trip, this time coming to Squamish at the end of August in the hope that conditions in September would be good. I'd heard from many people that this was the case but unluckily it turned out to be the wettest September in Squamish on record, and anybody who knows Squamish will know that's wet. We did have some good days and during those days I made progress. This time, even though I extended my stay in Squamish for two more weeks, I failed to get the conditions to climb it but left feeling confident I could. Finally in 2007 I'm back and now living in here in Squamish having moved here in mid April. The room project has definitely been something I really wanted to get back on as soon as possible. I was pretty amazed it was still a project so decided I should focus on climbing it before I did anything else. At first it felt I was back to square one as I couldn't do the first move but then over a few more days I was back to my best previous efforts. Another session and I found some new beta which gave me the break though I needed. The climbing consists of the two hardest moves first, pulling off the ground using a small high right pinch to get a sloping left edge before the crux pull off this hold to gain a sloping diagonal rail. After which a few more slightly easier moves lead to a throw to a decent edge and it's basically done. The holds are very poor and it requires quite a bit of body tension to remain on the rock. A few days ago accompanied my my friend Jack Fieldhouse, a climber responsible for developing a large percentage of the Squamish bouldering, I was back in the late evening in good cool conditions. Amazingly I put it together on my first try, every move went perfectly which for me it has to do. Each hold has to be taken exactly right with no margin for error and every foot placement precise otherwise I fail. I think this is why it's such a special problem for me, as it's very technical as well as powerful. I can't throw myself at it, there is no way I could get through all but the very last hard move if my feet cut, it feels like if you try too hard then it doesn't work. To be the first person to unlock this problem felt great, as to how hard I don't know - maybe v14 but it's so hard to grade things. All I know it's the best problem I've done, great moves, perfect rock and the only way up the face of the boulder
  • Tyler Landman: Ode to the Modern Man gets 2nd ascent >> Saturday the 26th of May 2007. woke up feeling pretty tired but syked. the day had come that i had been waiting for. i was going up to Mt. Evans today to have my third day on Ode to the Modern Man. i had tried it two other days over the last 3 weeks. I got close second day falling at the jump a couple times but split a tip. so i decided to leave the problem for 2 weeks. today was the day,i could feel it when i woke up. the problem starts off with a slopey left hand pinch and nothing rigt hand sidepull. you do a hard stab to a small crimp and then come into a terrible crystal with the other hand. You then do a huge jump to a big slope with a tricky swing to hold. here you can gather your thoughts and prepare for the next section which involves 3 tricky moves including a dynamic move off a poor pinch to a positive edge off an awkward heel hook. you then do 2 easier moves to the top of the wall. Straight off the bat, 1st go of the day, i stuck the jump, its in the satch i thought, but i fell at the last hard move, off the heel hook. i was shocked and disappointed but held it together. i fell again up there a couple goes later. this really frustrated me. my skin was becoming sore and i didnt know how many more goes i could have. 'There is no reason why i shouldn't do this right now' i thought to myself. i pulled on and climbed the problem with utmost tension throughout my body. i was not going to fall off this time. Daniel Woods put up this problem in September 06 and graded it v14. It took him 8 days, longer than any other problem which is significant because he has done almost every hard problem in North America. After going to Hueco Tanks this winter and climbing Fred Nicoles v14 testpiece, Terre De Sienne, in an impressive 8 goes, he realised his Ode must be v15 in comparison. This problem is the hardest in Colorado and one of the hardest in North America and is world class. I have decided to grade this problem v14/15. It is harder than any v14 i have done, and although only took me 3 days, it could not suit my style any better. i dont think it is quite hard enough for the whopping v15, but it is certainly the real deal. it is a futuristic line pulling on extremely small holds and a very high quality problem. It signifies a new modern climbing style i think. a problem of me and Daniel's generation. check out hardclimbs.blogspot.com for more upcoming news and footage. and momentumvm.com for the HD edited verson of the ascent.
  • Tyler Landman: Round Room Project (No Longer) >> In 2005 i went to squamish on a solo bouldering trip. While wondering around the forest, I wasnt sure of problems' names or grades, but i stumbled upon this and was very impressed. A perfect boulder i thought. Steep line on pristine granite slopes and pinches with a perfect jump to the flat top of the boulder. I learnt later on this was in fact 'The Round Room Project', of course it is no longer a project. I wished at that time i was climbing well enough to at least attempt the moves but i thought i would have to come back for this one. I am always pleased when a foreigner goes to an area and completes a longstanding project because it is a lot harder to do this when you aren't local to the area. Tim Clifford's effort is VERY impressive. This has been a project for forever and has been tried by some of the best climbers in the world, including Chris Sharma. Although i have not tried it, from what i've heard and seen, I think this is for sure 8b+ and could very well be 8c. I understand Tim likes to keep his climbing on the down low, but this problem deserves publicity. This problem is serious stuff. The real deal! I hope Tim's effort inspires climbers from all over the world to go try it, i am definately considering a trip this summer. Signing out. Ty
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>>Chris Tartaglia's Blog

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>>Climbing Films Movies

  • JY Roof by: Kelly Sheridan >> Max Hasson squeezin' juice on the newly 'discovered' JY Roof, yet another Leavenworth classic. Video and music from 3/7/06.
  • freeRIDER by: szaFa >> The first polish ascent of freeRIDER route.
  • Ridni -part 1 by: Upnorth >> Film about bouldering in the Land of the Midnight sun. Classic problems of Rovaniemi,Luppioberget and of course the new and mighty Inari. Total of 28 problems, including 5 first acsents and 6 unrepeated lines. Filmed & edited : Upnorth Productions Download a better quality from www.ridni.tk
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>>FreakClimbing News

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>>Lynn Hill's Blog

  • Still here, still climbing (but busy!) >>  Sorry I have not been updating! I have been working on a climbing technique video , amongst other things. Here is a recent update I wrote: Some people assume that the lifestyle of a climber is mostly about climbing. But there is a lot of “work” that gets done between trips and days out on the [...]
  • Brief Respite Between Trips >>  This past month has been filled with lots of travel for the usual mixture of work, play, family visits, and a fun birthday party for my son, Owen, who just turned five-years-old on Monday. Having recently come back from a trip to Italy where I got a chance to see some good friends in Arco [...]
  • The Cleanest Line >>  Please check out The Cleanest Line over at Patagonia.
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>>Modump Photos

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>>Pod Climber: Climbing Podcasts

  • Eric Hörst Training 42 >> Mental Preparation for Climbs Learn how to mentally scope a route, and then program the sequence for peak performance. Nicros :: Eric's Training Page :: Misty Murphy's Page :: File Download (10:33 min / 9.9 MB)
  • CoffeeTalk with LarryB 36 >> LarryB comes to the mic in this rock climbing podcast talking about parking right on top of the crag, emergency plans at the crag and what those climbing kids out there want for support and climbing news and the Mountain Gear Great Give-away. Mountain Hardwear :: Mountain Gear :: Pod Safe Music Network :: File Download (42:17 min / 38.8 MB)
  • Eric Hörst Training 41 >> Training Table #2 In this episode: Preventing and rehabbing shoulder injuries, southwest limestone, the importance of stewardship, and more. Nicros :: Eric's Training Page :: Misty Murphy's Page :: File Download (21:10 min / 19.6 MB)
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>>Rock Climbing .com forums

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>>Rock Climbing.com World News

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>>Southeastern Climbers Coalition News

  • Southeastern Regionals Held at Adrenaline Gym >>  Climbers battle it out for an invitation to Nationals. On May 10th, 2008, the Southeastern Regional Comp at Adrenaline Climbing was held at Adrenaline Climbing Gym in Suwanee (north Atlanta), Georgia. The event drew a packed crowd as competitors all climbed hard to make it to Nationals. The climbers stakes were super high as the winners got an invitation out to Nationals - so the heat was on.
  • Boat Rock Trail Day was Packed >>  Greg Berry and Patrick Barnett mentor Sophia Nabb on caring for the Boat Rock Preserve. On a supersonic hot day (96 degrees), 45 volunteers (a new record?) packed into the Boat Rock Preserve on Saturday, June 7th, 2008 to help show their support and stewardship for their local crag. Despite swelteriing temp's and sky high humidity, the group worked hard and with a great attitude to get a ton of work done. As part of the Access Fund's TeamWorks program (and Adopt-a-Crag) - nearly 30 percent of the volunteer work force were youth climbing team members from Atlanta Rocks and Adrenaline Climbing Gym.
  • Jason Kehl Interview >>  Jason Kehl on Free Willy at Hueco Tanks. Courtesy of www.cryptochild.com If you keep up with climbing, you've no doubt heard of Jason Kehl. Besides being a sick climber, Jason has also caught peoples attention with his art, graphic design work, climbing hold design, and his own clothing line. Jason will be coming to Atlanta on November 5th as part of the USAClimbing Route Setting Clinic, held at Adrenaline Climbing. Along with Dave Chancellor of So Ill Holds, Jason will be putting on a sick slide show presentation with proceeds from the show going to benefit the SCC. In Chattanooga, visiting gyms for the La Sportiva Solution Team Tour, By Brad Johansen-Adrenaline Climbing Gym.
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>>Sport Climbing .de (german)

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>>UK Climbing Articles

  • I Want That Job! Simon Panton - Guidebook Publisher >> Simon Panton is a guidebook publisher, a journalist and a bouldering guru. Here he explains all..
  • The Nose: 2:43:33 >> "Yesterday morning in Hans Florine and the Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama set a new speed record for climbing the 870m (2900') Nose route on El Cap. On their fourth attempt in the last ten days they achieved a time of 2 hours 43 minutes and 33 seconds, beating the previous record set by the Germans Thomas and Alexander Huber by 2 minutes and 12 seconds." Tom Evans - ElCap-pics reports.
  • Secrets of the Alpine Ninja - Advanced Alpine Techniques >> In this article, Rich Cross of Alpine Guides takes us to the next level in Alpine climbing. With hints and tips on everything from saving weight, acclimatisation and getting good info, through to block leading and 'speedy techniques' - this article really will make you in to an 'Alpine Ninja!'
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>>UK Climbing News

  • Local News - Best Limestone Problem in the UK? >> Chris Doyle has climbed a stunning new line down on the Sea View Walls below the Marine Drive on Great Orme. Flashpoint V8/7b+ takes the impressive bulging wall located just beyond the descent point...
  • Llanberis Mountain Rescue Helicopter - Rescued! >> During a joint operation between the RAF and the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team to rescue a walker with abdominal injuries, the RAF SeaKing helicopter supporting the rescue team broke down on the...
  • Leah Crane climbs another Font 7c >> 19 year old Leah Crane has just climbed another Font 7c, this time in Brione, Switzerland. During a quick fly-by 5 day bouldering trip to Magic Wood Leah also climbed two Font 7b+'s, taking only an...
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>>UK Climbing Photos

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>>UrbanClimberMag.tv

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