Jake Slaney has been scouting the cliffline and says "The past couple weeks, I've been hiking around there, and while I know it's not gonna be another Horse Pens 40, I think that coupled with the fact that you could camp, it's dog friendly, it's proximity to HP40, and that there is probably another couple miles of
cliff/boulders that haven't been fully explored...
I think with a trail system/circuit you could have a great bouldering area at least as good as 2 or 3 Moss rocks put together. The style of the boulders will be totally different from HP40 because it's cleaved from the ridge... More geometric/talus like and less egg shaped. There are sharp edges, faces, aretes. I've found at least 20 classic problems literally. There are a lot of ones that will go, but be V12,13, 14? I'll attach some
of the pics I took the other day.
You gotta look close on some of them to see the sunglasses or something for
scale.... Only took pics of a few...
The Steele climbing area has been closed to climbers since 1987 due to private land owner issues. The goal of The Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) is to open this crag to the climbing public in the summer of 2009.
Steele is comprised of over one mile of 80 to 100 foot tall sandstone climbing cliff located in northeastern Alabama. Situated above the town of Steele, this area has a long history of climbing dating back to the mid 1970's. Several old rings and angle pitons have been found scattered all along the cliffline.
Early pioneers and first ascentionist included Mark Cole, Rob Robinson, Gene Smith, Maurice Reed,Curt Merchant, Les Hutchinson, James Guidry, Ken Pitts, Mack McNease, Dean Elliot, Jamie Silliman and others. According to early climbers, many new routes were put up between 1984 and 1986. A second generation of climbers added new energy and lines to include Bernard Wolfe, Adam Henry, David Hemphill, Gus Fontenot and others. Today the area boasts many superb lines and a large concentration of 2 and 3 star routes (nearly 100 throughout the cliffline).
Steele has been closed to the public since 1987 after a local landowner (and farmer) got angry after climbers traipsed across his tomato fields to access the crag. No parking signs are still found to this day along the main road. The cliff was used infrequently by a small handfull of climbers over the years but never gained mass popularity again due to the sensitive private land owner access issues.
Over the years, Gus Fontenot of the SCC, spoke with the owner of the largest section of cliff to no avail. The owner repeatedly hung up or did not answer calls. In the summer of 2008, The SCC got the break it needed as Brad McLeod spoke and met with a local real estate broker who happened to know of a peice of land (and cliffline) that may be for sale (but not listed). The SCC began negotiations with the Robinson family for a 25 acre tract and a portion of the coveted climbing cliff.
Steele is described as several cliff sections with one main section called the Amphitheatre. The cliffline host both sport routes and traditional routes. According to several climbers, Birds Nest (5.9 trad) is one of the best of it's grade in the state of Alabama while Meathooks (5.13 sport)is spoke of in similar tones. There are samples of almost every grade in both sport and trad.
Currently, The SCC is close to finalizing a signed contract on a 25.59 acre tract (1,418 linear feet) in early March 2009. The cliff areas (survey pending) include the Area 51 Wall, The Nardo Wall, Campus Wall and Revelation Wall are within the property boundaries (or very close). This tract includes approximately 40 climbing routes, both sport and traditional along with a hillside strewn with sandstone boulders. The 25 tract also has a house trailer, metal shed, parking and good road access from the main highway (Chandler Mountain Road). The distance from the house trailer to the Nardo Wall is a short 800 linear feet hike with only a few hundred feet in rise.
The cost for the 25 acre tract is $55k of which the SCC has already pledged approximately $20k towards the purchase. It is believed that the SCC can raise another $15k by time of closing (late June 2009). Several fundraisers are on the horizon for the spring of 2009 and the Access Fund has been contacted (two SCC board members are also Access Fund board members) and they have given an initial approval that they may provide a grant and/or bridge loan to help secure the purchase by June 2009.
We believe that the Steele climbing area will be popular for southeast climbers but in particular those from Birmingham (45 minute drive) and Huntsville (less than one hour) and Chattanooga (1.5 hour). Atlanta climbers are no strangers to driving and the 2 hour plus drive will be a norm for them. Given the crags central location to several large cities and close access to Interstate 59, we believe this crag will see considerable traffic and use.
The SCC is currently asking for your support in the form of both financial support and upcoming volunteer support for trail building and work to prepare the crag for climbing. It is estimated that the SCC will need another $15K in funds to secure the purchase by June 2009. Your donation and support would be greatly appreciated.
Donations can be made to:
The SCC
275 Stone Mill Trail NE
Atlanta, GA 30328
or online at:
Click Here for online donation to Steele
The Steele cliffline if featured in the movie "Heart of Stone" by Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler:
Click Here for Heart of Stone Video
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition currently owns four climbing areas to include Boat Rock (Atlanta, GA), Kings Bluff (Clarkesville, TN), Jamestown (AL) and Yellow Bluff (AL). The SCC also leases the Castle Rock (TN) cliffline and the Woods Hill (GA) bouldering area. The SCC has a track record of 7 years of owning and managing climbing areas and raising funds to secure these areas. To date - it is estimated that the SCC and the Access Fund have raised over $250k for these six areas to secure access.
What Climbers are saying about Steele
Southern Sandstone legend Rob Robinson said of Steele "Steele is a fantastic niche area in the sandstone belt deserving of any visitors time. One of my favorite roof routes of 1986 was a beautiful Steele line dubbed "Challenger." Thanks to the SCC's ongoing efforts to get this area and many others reopened for the climbing community."
Author of the Dixie Craggers Atlas, Chris Watford explains "I've always thought it was a great place and a shame that it was closed, especially since it's so visible, right off of I-59. Like walking past a double chocolate cake and not being able to have a bite. I think it's so great that the SCC has made the leap to get it. It's high profile; it's highly visible; it's got a long history; it offers great rock and routes of all grades. Folks from all over are hearing about the great things the SCC is doing in terms of land acquisition, and now they're gonna get to visit yet another cliff that's been off limits for many years and get to climb on it. Pretty amazing community we have here in the Deep South."
Alabama native and early pioneer of Steele, Curt Merchant said "Well, Steele was the home of climbing in Alabama to me. We did not even use chalk in the early years. Talk about bolt wars, this was the chalk wars. Anyway, I am really happy to see that by working together we can open up crags that have been closed for so long. Thanks to the SCC for another classic crag."
Suggested Tips for Climbing at Steele:
* Please keep the noise to a minimum and be respectful of homeowners on the cliff above and the valley below.
* Steele is both a traditional and sport climbing area. There are many old traditional and mixed routes with a long climbing history. Please be respectful - if you dont know about a routes history - please ask. If you would like to install a sport climb - please talk with the Preserve Managers (Johnny Connell and Jeremy Boydston).
* Pack all trash out (and any other trash that you find)
Suggested climbs at new 25 acre tract at Steele
5.7 Wisdom (trad, long and well protected)**
5.7 Stepping Out (trad crack)**
5.7+ Grahams Crack (trad crack)****
numerous boulders below Grahams Crack
Climbs located off 25 acre on adjacent property
5.6 Triad (trad, well protected)**
5.8 Steele Magnolia (trad)**
5.9 Birds Nest (arching trad crack)****
5.9 Monopoly (trad arete)****
5.10 Unnamed to left of B-52 (long sport)
5.10 Rainbow Arch (trad)
5.10 Dead Reckoning (sport)**
5.10+ Aura (spicy face)***
5.11 Humpin to Please
5.11 Cloak and Dagger (arete)
5.12 Carnivore
5.12 Jetstream (vertical ballet face)
5.12 Chandlers Roof Crack (trad)
5.12/5.13 Renegade Trad
5.13 Meathooks (sport)
Top Rope - Devils Wall
Steele Preserve Managers:
Johnny Connell - jconnell@coosahs.net
Jeremy Boydston -
Driving Directions:
From Birmingham (heading north on I-59) - Take second Steele exit (exit 174). Take left over Interstate bridge onto Steele Station road and follow road over railroad tracks to T. Take a left onto RailRoad avenue and drive 300 yards and take right onto Chandler Mountain Road (Hwy 42). Drive up hill about 2 miles as you get glimpses of the Steele cliffline on your right.
From Chattanooga (heading south on I-59) - Take first Steele exit (exit 174). Take right onto Steele Station road and follow road over railroad tracks to T. Take a left onto RailRoad avenue and drive 300 yards and take right onto Chandler Mountain Road (Hwy 42). Drive up hill about 2 miles as you get glimpses of the Steele cliffline on your right.
Camping: Camping may be allowed at this tract. Details and campsites will be worked out after the purchase is complete.


